Dr. Marian Ann Montgomery is Curator of Clothing & Textiles at the Museum of Texas Tech University, where she oversees a division comprising over 32,000 objects. Dr. Montgomery has written multiple books about quilting, needlework, and material culture, including 2019’s Cotton and Thrift: Feed Sacks and the Fabric of American Households. Texas Tech University Press.
Before she became Curator at Texas Tech, Dr. Montgomery was Site Administrator at Graeme Park, one of Pennsbury Manor’s sister sites in the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission (PHMC).
Dr. Montgomery’s connections to Pennsbury Manor run even deeper. As an employee of the PHMC, she became colleagues with former Pennsbury Manor Site Administrators Nancy Kolb ands Alice Hemenway. She credits them with helping her learn the museum business. Moreover, it was a trip to Pennsbury Manor in 4th grade which made her realize that working in a museum was something possible.
We talked with Dr. Montgomery to learn about her path to becoming a museum curator, what clothing can tell us about a person, and how Pennsbury Manor had an impact on her career.
The interview below is edited for length and clarity.
Q: What do you recall from that experience going to Pennsbury all that time ago?
I recall call a big house, beautiful property, and guards in some sort of a jacket.
I enjoyed the big rooms, the furniture, the stories and you could pretend you lived here. And I know that’s not why historic sites exist. Not to pretend that you live there, it’s to help you understand what that person’s life is like and what life was like at that time.
But for the fourth grader, she saw a man in a jacket, and he gave a tour, and he was older, and I just loved the whole ambience. I had grown up in a big old Victorian, Gothic House, so I knew big spaces. I knew older houses, but nothing finished so nicely, nothing that old, and the fact that it was a place where that guy had a job and come do this was was really fun.
At Christmas, I got a jacket that I thought made me look like a tour guide. My father had this train platform that he sent up every Christmas. When there was no one else in the room, I would put on that little jacket, and I would give tours of that village. I was playing tour guide as a fourth grader because of what I had seen at Pennsbury Manor.
Q: When did you begin to consider pursuing textile and clothing curation as a profession?
I didn’t understand the museum business as a career. In those days, women were to be nurses or teachers. I knew blood and guts was not my thing. I was going for teacher.
Philadelphia College of textiles and sciences allowed me, as an advanced chemistry student, to come for a summer. I got to do hands on with silkscreen and see how the weaving machines worked. And I went home and I decided I was going to be a home economics teacher.
I was teaching in Central Bucks School District and I had a ninth grade interior design class. In those days, when you were a teacher intent on getting your permanent certificate in Pennsylvania, you had better get your Masters.
I went to Cornell and decided that Cornell had this great opportunity that you just put together your classes. I couldn’t work in historic fashion, so I had to work in interior decoration, and that’s how I got into the museum business. I knew that I needed a master’s, and I knew I had to write a thesis. Every chapter of every course I took was a thesis in historic cookware.
I designed [my thesis] in a way that I got into about 10 or 12 historic sites around the northeast because with just a master’s jobs were not going to be easy to find, but there are lots of jobs if you know somebody that knows. And so every time I went, I was on my best behavior, and I dressed as professionally as I could. I showed up on time, and I did what I was supposed to do, and at the end of my time with them when they had gotten to like me, I would say, “Hey, I’m going to look you for a job in August. You know many openings?” Three opportunities came up. And I had two offers before I had the thesis finished, and one was with the Pennsylvania Historical Museum Commission.
Q:What gets you most excited about the curation of textile collections?
It’s the stories. And if you’re a historian, there’s some pretty unpleasant stories to tell. It’s the stories behind things that I find the most interesting. I always am throwing in things and helping people to see different things.
Q: What kind of things do we learn from clothing, whether reproductions worn by reenactors or originals displayed in a museum, about the people who wore them?
James Laver, was a major fashion historian, and he said, “If you show me what someone’s wearing, I can tell you what was happening at that time.”
So if you look at reenactors clothes from your time period you’re in, you have different levels. You have worker bees that have more of the coarse, not tightly woven clothing. And then you have William Penn or his family. They’re going to be dressed in silks. Right away you can see the difference in economic level from [the clothes].
Even today, I can tell you by looking at people what they value and what’s important to them by what they have on. It tells a huge story.